The future and development of Georgian natural wine heavily rely on exports in the civilized world. Although interest in natural wine made in small wineries has grown significantly in Georgia, and Georgian wine bars and stores have gradually embraced the natural wine trend, the Georgian wine market, economically speaking, cannot be self-sustaining. Consequently, the majority of natural wine-producing wineries focus on exporting their wine to Western countries. Among these export markets, the United States holds a special place, with the volume of Georgian natural wine exported increasing year by year.

Malkhaz Jakeli is a renowned figure in Georgian winemaking. He is among the select few who introduced natural winemaking as a distinct movement in Georgia. Currently residing in the United States, Malkhaz Jakeli remains deeply involved with wine — especially Georgian natural wine. For several years now, he has been exporting Georgian wine to the U.S. in partnership with others, and it is commendable that a significant portion of the wines he brings from Georgia to America originates in wineries affiliated with the Natural Wine Association.

To start our conversation with Malkhaz Jakeli, we asked which U.S. cities he supplies with Georgian wine and how much demand there is for natural wine.

Malkhaz Jakeli, Georgian Wine Exporter in the U.S.: "We primarily supply Georgian wine to New York stores and bars, but we also operate in many small towns near New York and New Jersey. Additionally, we sell wine in several other states, including Oregon, Virginia, Maryland, and Washington, D.C."

Q: Approximately what percentage of the wine you sell is natural wine?

A: "Let me assure you, our entire portfolio consists of natural wines produced by small and medium-sized wineries across Georgia. Some of these wineries are members of the Natural Wine Association, while others are not."

Q: What wines and which varieties are in demand?

1. "Amber, locally referred to as 'orange' wines, and, of course, Saperavi are in high demand. Unsurprisingly, the majority of our company's portfolio, under the name 'Neki,' comes from Kakheti. However, we are working to diversify by gradually introducing wines from Western Georgia."

Q: What is the approximate price of Georgian wine in America? Does the grape variety play a role in pricing? 

A: "The grape variety does not influence the pricing of wine. Let's not fool ourselves into thinking Americans are highly knowledgeable about Georgian wine. Nine years ago, when I first came to America, even those employed in the wine industry — sommeliers, wine buyers, and so on — were largely unaware of Georgian wine, and most had never tasted it. Today, the situation has changed dramatically. Almost everyone in the wine industry has heard of and sampled Georgian wines at exhibitions or tastings. Many have even visited Georgia to learn more about us and our wine.

Additionally, Georgian wine gained greater recognition following a study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Sciences in November 2017. This research, which involved about twenty Georgian and foreign scientists, accurately dated organic residues found in Qvevri fragments during archaeological excavations on Gadachrili Gora in Kvemo Kartli. They confirmed it was wine made from grapes grown on cultivated vines, dating back to 6000-5800 BCE. Naturally, Georgia is leveraging this discovery in its marketing efforts, promoting itself as the 'Cradle of Wine.' These combined efforts have significantly boosted the recognition and demand for Georgian wine in New York and other large cities. However, we still have considerable work to do to expand consumer awareness."

Prices are mainly determined by the cost of wine on the spot in Georgia and then all the overhead costs from the cellar to the shelves of stores or in the warehouses of bars and restaurants.

Q: How popular are Qvevri and Qvevri wines in America? Approximately what percentage of your wines are Qvevri wines? 

1. "About 90-95% of the wines in the 'Neki' portfolio are Qvevri wines. We focus on this segment, offering unique, artisanal wines. Unfortunately, I cannot sell to areas with a large population of immigrants from the former Soviet Union, such as Brighton Beach and similar neighborhoods. It's not for lack of trying — they simply don't buy from me. Their preference leans toward relatively inexpensive, conventional wines."

Q: Do you think the quality of Georgian natural wine is improving? 

1. "Absolutely! The quality is undoubtedly improving, and for any honest and dedicated winemaker, this must be a constant and irreversible process."

Levan Sebiskveradze